SET THE TONE
Dark, textured, wool-rich suits set the tone for tailoring this season.
As tailoring takes a sartorial leap forward for AW12, the suit-wearer has colour, texture and look-defining details to discover. From wool-rich suits in textured finishes to bold use of colour and Great Gatsby-influenced styling, there's a shift in tailoring this season, and it all starts with a suit...
The suit means more this season than ever before. Once a symbol of power, status and usually pulled on for business reasons or formal occasions, it means different things to different people. But this season, it has an alternative meaning all together.
No longer will suits be stuffed in a garment bag at the back of the wardrobe waiting for ‘good reasons’ to be worn. Instead, they can be worn on a daily basis in the smartest of all guises (three-piece, double-breasted, and with distinct styling), without the batting of an eyelid.
There are various reasons for this. Firstly, there’s a shift in attitude towards the suit. Men are more at ease viewing it as an everyday piece, or at least they are more willing to wear it than before. It has broken its ‘stuffed suit’ reputation; basically dressing up is cool again.
Furthermore, they look better. No longer is a simple style, cut and colour acceptable. This season the suit has moved on, and it offers so much more.
Colour for instance. Prune, anyone? Who would have worn a prune suit a few years ago? Things have moved on. Alongside this exciting shade, into the bold we go, with smoky charcoal greys, melange and bright blues, too.
Texture plays a key part as well. Wool, mohair blends with textured weaves invite a closer look and offer a feeling of richness and depth, which lends itself so well to the winter season.
And, of course, the styling has stepped up a notch too. Mad Men started it and the Great Gatsby and Boardwalk Empire has certainly cemented it, with vintage-inspired, supped-up styling finishing every man’s look. Tie pins, collar bars, cufflinks, pocket squares and silk scarves adorn suits worn with contrast print shirts, roll necks and statement shoes and socks.
The suit is back, are you ready for it?