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AW15 MENS NOTEBOOK

17.07.15

Bold, refined, contemporary, cool. Reiss AW15 menswear is a celebration of all of the qualities in the men we admire and the men we aspire to be like. This season’s Reiss man may be a well-travelled citizen of the world or a suburbanite with a penchant for life’s luxuries, but all of the men we had in mind when creating the collection share a common interest: a love of modern design and precise craftsmanship.

Taking inspiration from the heady night culture of city jazz clubs and the iconic performers who graced their stages, Reiss AW15 pays homage to the sartorial flair of a bygone time. With its eyes still firmly focused on the now, the collection displays an international aesthetic where wearable fashion meets pioneering style.

American jazz musicians Miles Davis and Chet Baker embody the sartorial sensibility that this season’s menswear seeks to evoke. Their ability to be both potent and unfussy in their dress is something which has become a benchmark for the well-dressed man, even now.

The generous, atmospheric brush strokes of Pierre Soulages’ works have provided ripe inspiration for AW15’s colour palette which is best described as dimly lit. Navy and black form a base while winter white, pebble grey, English green and camel add muted light to this darkness. The result is dramatic yet effortless.

Taking the rough with the smooth, texture emphasises the sheer versatility of fabrication. Soft suede reveals a shaggy reverse while leather ranges from impossibly smooth to gently grained. But it’s not just the natural world which gives rise to menswear that feels every bit as good to touch as it does to look at. Faux-fur trims lend outerwear a hit of tactile contrast while boucle displays the ingenuity of fine needlework.

Driven by a need to innovate but restrained by a desire for sophistication, this season’s prints and pattern explore everything from the clean lines of architecture to the organic flourishes of the natural world. Heritage checks are given a new lease of life thanks to proportion play while foliage is abstracted to create pattern which feels, clean, fresh and contemporary.

Whether long or short, fitted or oversized, AW15’s shapes boast something for every man. On outerwear we’ve enlarged dimensions for a modern take on timeless style while classic overcoats and bomber jackets retain their enduring appeal. Tailoring meanwhile has been cut to follow the form, nowhere is this more apparent than on streamlined double-breasted blazers which feel anything but boxy.

This season – more than any other – embraces the loosening of formal dress codes and takes full advantage of a new mood in menswear that celebrates choice. For the purist, tuxedos in contemporary cuts fuse the best of trend and tradition, while the adventurous dresser will find a wealth of textures, patterns and accessories at his disposal. Wear a velvet blazer with a roll-neck jumper or swap out a shirt and tie in favour of a T-shirt and scarf, when it comes to AW15′s formalwear experimentation is king.