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London Collections: Review

18.06.12

So, London's first ever men's fashion week (end) has drawn to a close; and what a weekend is was. Not only were the gentlemen of London out to impress with some dapper streetwear choices, but in a packed schedule of shows and presentations, some of the UK’s brightest new designers - as well as some of our longest established names - showcased their menswear offerings for Spring Summer 2013.

The vibe on the catwalks this season was a move away from the fully tailored look which has been celebrated for the past few seasons, moving instead towards a more casual feel. 90s sportswear shapes and textures including mesh finishes, cropped length tops and broad cut shoulders were on display at Lou Dalton and at Topman Design in bold shades.

At Richard Nicoll’s debut menswear show, bomber jackets, long line shorts, and luxe sportsbags made up the look.

Monochrome stripes (rather than a navy and blue Breton stripe) were also in abundance. Alistair Carr’s final collection for Pringle relied on narrow black and white stripes and graphic patterns, and at Jonathan Saunders, the designer showcased suiting in black with a fine white printed stripe; not exactly pin stripes, but totally cool and utterly wearable.

And at the other end of the spectrum, the eccentricity for which London is well known was on full display at Meadham Kirchhoff. Their installation piece played up to the design duo’s punky sensibilities, with models clad in bold embellished shorts and knits, lounging on mattresses and old chairs in a squat setting, surrounded by dying roses and peonies.

Also well known for their quirky aesthetic is Sibling, where masked models walked the runway with baseball jackets embellished with bleached 8 mm film - giving the impression of layered sequins - with cropped sweat pants and baseball hats completing the 90s aesthetic.

At the end of the weekend, GQ ed Dylan Jones - head of the BFC menswear committee - confirmed that the London Collections: Men is set to continue next season, for Autumn/Winter 2013. London's role as a hotspot for men's fashion, it seems, is only set to grow.