Coat Tales


Whether you favour a short jacket or a long overcoat, this season's outerwear is a tale of two halves. Meet AW16's essential styles


When making that crucial investment in a winter coat, we’re willing to wager that the first two colours that come to mind are black and navy. While we’re not going to dispute that you’re in pretty safe territory here, we will urge you to consider adding a hit of restrained colour to your outerwear line-up. Our classic, streamlined design which is realised in plum deftly walks that tricky line between standout and subtle, or shake things up with a brighter blue or green coat.


Utilitarian-inspired style shouldn’t lose the essence of the original design, which by definition should be practical above all else. With its breast-placed pockets and sturdy zip closure, the utility jacket forms the perfect base on which to build a solid cold weather wardrobe. All work and no style wouldn’t make for the most desirable outwear though, which is why our take on the utility jacket comes in rich racing green and is spun from refined yet robust wool.


Shearling may have been drawn upon for centuries to stave off biting winds, but in all its (sometimes chequered) history, it’s never felt so ruggedly handsome as it does now. There’s no doubt that there’s little else that will keep you quite so warm, but there are so many more things to love about a shearling coat. It’s equal parts refined and relaxed and is every bit as luxurious as it is lightweight. In short it offers everything you could ask for from a winter coat. This season we’ve crafted a shearling jacket which contrasts grey lining with a pale grey outer for a sleek, contemporary reboot.


On outerwear as elsewhere, heritage design seems to be lying dormant after a decade of finding itself exposed to saturation point, but if you look a little closer you’ll find it. In our AW16 outerwear offering, we’re plumping for pattern in the subtlest of forms. The checks on our navy peak lapel overcoat have almost gone underground and are realised as a micro, tonal pattern which offers a low-key way to wear interest fabric.


The matter of wearing a fur collar coat while looking suitably serious is something which has long troubled men who take their outerwear just a touch tactile. For those uninitiated, wearing a fur collar coat is a surprisingly simple way to increase cold weather style stock while offering to obvious benefit of keeping a chilly neck at bay. Ideal for wearing for winter weddings and other formal occasions, our take on the design combines a universally flattering shape with a sleek tuft of faux fur.


Disregard for a moment this style’s seemingly silly name, the shacket (which sits midway between a shirt and a jacket) is one of the most versatile outerwear designs you can recruit for your sartorial arsenal when temperatures drop. We’ve positioned our AW16 version squarely between shirt and jacket, so you can layer up (or down) as the weather dictates. Though it may refuse to choose sides on its position as a light or heavy-duty wardrobe option, you can be sure of the fact that our AW16 design is assured of its style credentials.


After a decade or two of being largely absent from men’s winter collections, in recent years the camel coat has returned to reclaim its rightful spot in the wardrobes and affections of stylish men everywhere. What prompted this enthusiastic return to an old favourite? An innovative new imagining of how this style could be recast to meet the modern man’s sartorial needs. Whereas the old camel coat was often boxy and at home worn over an equally boxy suit, the new camel coat embraces modern design principles and is just as happily worn over leisurewear as workwear. Case in point is our version for AW16 which takes the shade up a few notches and adds a double breasted closure while retaining a streamlined overall shape like the rest of our wool coats.


Menswear is world that’s not impervious to head-spinning change but - like with many things in life - some things are best left as they are. Take for example the wool Epsom coat, often adapted but rarely bettered. This season we’ve given this outerwear classic a few tweaks, but have left the design’s time-tested aesthetic intact, meaning you’ll get that same great coverage that has served so many generations of men so well.


Sometimes, unpleasant weather calls for the most resilient defence against the elements, which is when the concealed placket coat comes into its own. By fastening with two mechanisms (button and zip) there’s little chance of you falling victim to the worst that mother nature has to unleash. We’ve enhanced the style’s inherent practicality by adding a raft of functionally-minded features – such as a double collar - to bump up the already impressive list of tech specs.


Is there any outerwear style as familiar with being referred to as a sartorial signifier of cool than the leather jacket? From the biker to the bomber, in smooth leather or in softest suede, the leather jacket is one of the most iconic items a man can own. It's also the single outerwear piece most deserving of the title of ‘wardrobe investment’. Once you’ve found the perfect version, you'll find yourself wearing it long after you can remember when you even bought it. Robust yet unapologetically sophisticated, timeless yet uncompromisingly contemporary, our grained leather take on this wardrobe icon brings to mind all those things that have made the design so indispensable.