THE GREAT TAILORING MOVEMENT

As tailoring takes a sartorial leap forward for AW12, the suit-wearer has colour, texture and look-defining details to discover. From wool-rich suits in textured finishes to bold use of colour and Great Gatsby-influenced styling, there’s a shift in tailoring this season, and it all starts with a suit…

THE GREAT TAILORING MOVEMENT

SET THE TONE

Dark, textured, wool-rich suits set the tone for tailoring this season.

Whitestone blazer, Whitestone trousers, Whitestone waistcoat, Neptune roll neck (coming soon), Brunswick loafers.

THE GREAT TAILORING MOVEMENT

ROLL WITH IT

Swap a crisp shirt for a lightweight roll neck – it adds a retro touch.

Whitestone blazer, Whitestone trousers, Whitestone waistcoat, Neptune roll neck (coming soon), Brunswick loafers.

THE GREAT TAILORING MOVEMENT

THE FINISH

The luxurious wool and mohair blend of this subtle woven suit lends a matte texture.

Nayland suit, Portabello pocket square, Abberton tie, Inca shirt, Clements shoes.

THE GREAT TAILORING MOVEMENT

THREE KEY PIECES

Go layered and add the waistcoat to strengthen your tailored look.

Nayland suit, Nayland waistcoat, Portabello pocket square, Abberton tie, Inca shirt, Clements shoes.

THE GREAT TAILORING MOVEMENT

GREAT PEAKS

The peak lapel on this textured suit adds vintage flair to its contemporary cut.

Hale suit, Ritz shirt, Waverley pocket square.

THE GREAT TAILORING MOVEMENT

POWER STYLING

Go bold with styling and choose a print shirt, contrast tie and vintage accessories.

Hale suit, Ritz shirt, Waverley pocket square, Bologne shoes.

THE GREAT TAILORING MOVEMENT

NEW SHAPES

The curved shawl collar on this waistcoat boasts a 1920s shape with modern overtones.

Sommerville blazer, Sommerville waistcoat, Sommerville trousers, Zinc shirt, Alloy pocket square, Cairo tie.

THE GREAT TAILORING MOVEMENT

GATSBY ACCESSORIES

Forgo safe accessories in favour of a slim bronze tie, paisley pocket square and green shoes.

Sommerville blazer, Sommerville Waistcoat, Sommerville Trouser, Zinc shirt, Alloy pocket square, Cairo tie, Bologne shoes.

THE GREAT TAILORING MOVEMENT

SEPARATE WAYS

Sold as separate pieces, you can layer and style this versatile suit as you wish.

Somerville blazer, Sommerville waistcoat, Sommerville trousers, Zinc shirt, Alloy pocket square, Cairo tie, Bologne shoes.

THE GREAT TAILORING MOVEMENT

GET SHIRTY

Pale blue with flashes of white at the collar and cuffs, this shirt lends a business-like edge.

Melville blazer, Melville trousers, Jennings shirt,  Carisbrooke tie, Portabello pocket square, Clements shoes.

 

SHOP ALL SUITS AND TAILORING                             VIEW PART TWO

The suit means more this season than ever before. Once a symbol of power, status and usually pulled on for business reasons or formal occasions, it means different things to different people. But this season, it has an alternative meaning all together.

No longer will suits be stuffed in a garment bag at the back of the wardrobe waiting for ‘good reasons’ to be worn. Instead, they can be worn on a daily basis in the smartest of all guises (three-piece, double-breasted, and with distinct styling), without the batting of an eyelid.

There are various reasons for this. Firstly, there’s a shift in attitude towards the suit. Men are more at ease viewing it as an everyday piece, or at least they are more willing to wear it than before. It has broken its ‘stuffed suit’ reputation; basically dressing up is cool again.

Furthermore, they look better. No longer is a simple style, cut and colour acceptable. This season the suit has moved on, and it offers so much more.

Colour for instance. Prune, anyone? Who would have worn a prune suit a few years ago? Things have moved on. Alongside this exciting shade, into the bold we go, with smoky charcoal greys, melange and bright blues, too.

Texture plays a key part as well. Wool, mohair blends with textured weaves invite a closer look and offer a feeling of richness and depth, which lends itself so well to the winter season.

And, of course, the styling has stepped up a notch too. Mad Men started it and the Great Gatsby and Boardwalk Empire has certainly cemented it, with vintage-inspired, supped-up styling finishing every man’s look. Tie pins, collar bars, cufflinks, pocket squares and silk scarves adorn suits worn with contrast print shirts, roll necks and statement shoes and socks.

The suit is back, are you ready for it?

View Part Two